Xela, Guatemala.

Today marks two weeks in Central America. It feels like we've been here a month.

We are currently in Xela (Quetzaltenango), which is the second largest city in Guatemala. It's large and intimidating, but with an incredible downtown built around a beautiful plaza called parque centroamerica. The whole area was redecorated in the early 20th century in a neo-classical style, so all the government buildings have these towering corinthian columns and garden courtyards decorated with statues of Roman mythology. It sounds kind of kitschy, but they did a great job of it and created a pretty unique central american city.

We have been here for two days, visiting museums and exploring the town. However, the highlight of our visit happened unexpectedly yesterday, as they almost always do. We were a bit lost, looking for the local art school/museum, when we asked a friendly local for directions. He turned out to be Rodrigo Diaz, an internationally known artist. In spite of how dirty we look (obviously unable to buy any artwork), he invited us into his studio to see his art and chat for a bit. So there we were, in a room the size and shape of a hallway, listening to his stories of studying and exhibiting all over the world. His studio was so packed full of canvases, paint, and half eaten food that there was barely room to stand and all walking had to be done on tip-toes. As we left, he traded us postcards of his artwork for a smile and a handshake. It was a great experience.

Three days ago we climbed Volcan Pacaya, which was one of the most incredible, indescribable experiences of my life. Two and a half miles of trail with a vertical ascent of 1.25 miles. Every time you had gone two feet forward, you had also gone one foot straight up. It was actually the hardest physical excercise I have ever done, and I can't believe I made it to the top. Of perhaps 45 people in our group, all between twenty and thirty years old, maybe 30 made it all the way.

As we got above the treeline, the volcano stretched another kilometer towards the sky. Even from that far below the cone, you could see lava spitting out in giant globs every few minutes. We assumed that we had reached the summit at that point, as no government in the world would possibly let you climb the loose-pumice slope all the way to the rim of the crater. But this is Guatemala, and we were wrong. Another hour of the most agonizing climbing I've ever done, and we were standing less than 50 feet from the cone of an active crater, watching lava spray into the air and land (fortunately) on the other side of the rim. I've never had an experience like it, and trying to describe it doesn't make much sense. For once in my life, I can truly say that you had to be there to understand. The rocks were steaming and hot to the touch. The wind was blowing at a steady 50 mph. The sulphur and gas was so thick in the atmosphere, and the air was so thin with the altitude, that breathing was difficult. My legs felt as though they were about to collapse beneath me. But at the top, I couldn't notice a bit of it. The sun was setting behind the volcano, and small eruptions continuously sprayed lava into the clouds. It was so beautiful that nobody could even speak.

I have seen some remarkable things in my life. But I've never seen anything that comes even close to watching a volcano erupt 50 feet from where I was standing.

But anyhow, enough of that. Leaving Antigua yesterday was tough, and it was sad to say goodbye to our friends and roommates. We all spent the day together yestday, exploring the markets and the cemetary before watching the pre-Easter procession in the evening. It was quite a celebration, and the whole town turned out for the floats and costumes and artwork on the streets. Martin, Adam, and Allison, if you read this, it was great meeting you and I hope to run into you all again at some point on the trip.

A bit of bad news as well - I am covered, absolutely covered, in very strange bug bites that I received while sleeping in the jungle in Tikal. I met another traveller who had them, and he insists that they will clear up on their own, but they are very uncomfortable and have been making for a few rough days. It's strange, because the bites occurred over a week ago and didn't itch. Then they disappeared for a few days before erupting into giant, painful welts all over my arms and back. But so it goes.

I hope everyone is well back home and I miss all of you. I'll try to update again before we head to Honduras next week.

Cheers
Travis